Sailing in Dubrovnik

Approaching from the west, you pass the Elaphiti islands before the coast steepens and the city appears below the bare slope of Mount Srđ. The walls rise straight from the rocks, with the round Minčeta tower at the top and the fortress of Lovrijenac on its own crag outside the west gate. The wooded island of Lokrum lies just off the old town.

Yachts do not usually stop under the walls. The old harbour on the eastern side of the old town is used by local excursion boats and taxi boats, so most visiting yachts arrive at Gruž, the city's main port, or continue past it up the Rijeka Dubrovačka, a narrow inlet fed by a river.

For centuries Dubrovnik, then known as Ragusa, was an independent republic that lived by trade and diplomacy, with a merchant fleet that sailed across the Mediterranean. It kept its independence until 1808, when it was abolished under Napoleon.

A great earthquake in 1667 destroyed much of the city, and the rebuilding gave the old town its unified baroque look, including the polished limestone of the Stradun, its main street. The city was shelled during the siege of 1991 and 1992 and carefully restored afterwards. The old city has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

• Walk the city walls, a circuit of almost two kilometres with views over the rooftops and out to sea. Go as early as you can, before the heat and the crowds.
• The Stradun, running from the Pile Gate to the old harbour, with the Rector's Palace and the Sponza Palace at its eastern end.
• The Franciscan monastery near the Pile Gate, whose pharmacy has been running since the 14th century.
• Lovrijenac fortress, outside the walls, with views back across the city.
• The cable car up Mount Srđ, for a view over the whole old town, Lokrum and the islands.

In July and August the Dubrovnik Summer Festival brings theatre and music to the city's squares, forts and courtyards.

Lokrum, a few minutes from the old harbour by local boat, has pine woods, a botanical garden, a ruined Benedictine monastery, rocky swimming spots and a small salt-water lake. Peacocks roam the island, and visitors may not stay overnight.

The Elaphiti islands to the north-west are quieter. Koločep is the closest and smallest, Lopud has one of the few sandy beaches in the area at Šunj bay, and Šipan, the largest, has two villages at either end of a fertile valley. South-east of the city, Cavtat is a small, attractive harbour town with pine-shaded paths around its peninsula.

Dubrovnik's seafood is excellent, especially oysters and mussels from Ston, on the Pelješac peninsula north-west of the city, where they have been farmed for centuries. Black risotto made with cuttlefish ink is a staple, and rozata, a caramel custard flavoured with local rose liqueur, is the classic dessert. For wine, try Malvasija dubrovačka, a white from the Konavle valley south of the city, or the powerful Plavac mali reds from Dingač on Pelješac.

The ACI marina lies a few kilometres up the Rijeka Dubrovačka inlet, a sheltered spot with a regular bus into the city. Gruž port is mainly used by ferries and cruise ships, though there are berths for yachts along parts of its quay. Cavtat has a town quay, and the Elaphiti islands have bays with anchorages and mooring buoys, such as the harbours on Šipan and Lopud.

Whether a week includes Dubrovnik depends on the route, so ask us when you enquire. Stops can change with the weather. For how marinas and quays work, see our guide to marinas and town quays.

Dubrovnik is one of the busiest places on the coast in summer, especially when several cruise ships are in port at once. Visit the old town early in the morning or in the evening, and wear shoes with grip: the stone streets are polished smooth and there are many steps.

Buses run from Gruž and the marina to the Pile Gate. The airport at Čilipi lies south-east of the city, on the coast road past Cavtat, so allow time for summer traffic. Cards are widely accepted, and the walls, cable car and Lokrum boats sell tickets separately; check prices and times on official sites before you go.

The old town is home to a dwindling number of residents, so keep noise down in its lanes at night and dress respectfully away from the beach. Lokrum is a protected reserve: follow its rules and take everything you bring back with you. When anchoring around the Elaphiti islands, use buoys where provided and drop anchor on sand, clear of the Posidonia seagrass; our guide to protecting seagrass when anchoring explains how.